Is it the perfect aggressive bike for XCers? Or the ideal XC bike for DHers? Or how about the ultimate 26” weapon for those mythical dual slalom, 4X or slope-style categories?
However you analyze it, a stiff 125mm VPP frame, low bottom bracket height and 68° head angle make for a crazy amount of fun, and that’s all that matters.
|Top Tube Length||552.5mm21.8in||584.2mm23in||609.6mm24in||635mm25in|
|Seat Tube Length||400mm15.8in||431.8mm17in||469.9mm18.5in||508mm20in|
|Head Tube Angle||68°68°||68°68°||68°68°||68°68°|
|Seat Tube Angle||72.5°72.5°||72.5°72.5°||72.5°72.5°||72.5°72.5°|
|Head Tube Length||100mm3.9in||110mm4.3in||120mm4.7in||5.5mm140in|
Shock: Fox Float CTD Evolution
Click here to customize.
|Forks||R TR||SPX TR||XO-1 TR †||XTR TR † §|
|32 Float CTD 130||$309913.597kgs29.91lbs||$506413.082kgs28.78lbs||$549112.634kgs27.79lbs||$697412.69kgs27.91lbs|
|32 Float CTDK 130||$387613.417kgs29.5lbs||$522812.902kgs28.37lbs||$565512.454kgs27.38lbs||$713812.51kgs27.5lbs|
Yes, this bike has been designed with ISCG-05 chainguide mounting tabs. We have had great luck with the E13 LG1 Tr, MRP Lopes guide or Mini G3. For dual ring guides, try the E13 TRS+Dual or MRP 2x guides. These should fit with minimal or no modification.
Yes, we have included routing for remote-actuated telescoping seatposts on the frame. Some newer frames also have internal routing for "stealth" posts.
Yes- this is correct. With our newer pivot system, the pivot axle draws the link over to one side in order to properly preload the bearings. This offset is accounted for in the frame design so everything ends up nice and straight in the end.
120mm-140mm. Typically the forks we offer are 130mm, which is kind of the sweet spot, but they can all be reduced to 120mm or extended to 140mm by changing some internal parts.
We don't provide a torque spec for the seatpost, because it really depends on what seatpost you are using. Some seatposts are slippery, and require more torque to stay put, and others are very thin- and can be crushed by overzealous tightening. Some are both slippery and thin...
You will not damage your frame by overtightening the seat collar, assuming you have a 30.9mm seatpost in it.
This bike uses a 34.9mm Bottom Swing (high clamp), Top Pull front derailleur.
We use a headset generally referred to as "mixed tapered". This is a 44mm internal upper cup, with an external 49mm lower cup. The SHIS name is ZS44/28.6 EC49/40.
This frame uses a standard IS rear brake mount. Just pick your rotor size and order the correct adaptor to go from IS to post mount (all modern brakes).
On any crank with optional Q-factor, choose the wider version. 166 for Sram XX, or 168 for XX1. For Shimano doubles, we recommend the M980.
We use a standard 73mm threaded BB. Nearly any crank on the market (besides BB30 cranks) will fit.
This bike uses a 142x12 through-axle rear hub, and includes a DT RWS axle.
We use a 30.9mm seatpost. Always ensure it is inserted into the frame a minimum of 100mm (4").
This bike uses a 200x51mm shock with 22x8mm eyelet hardware (21.8mm x 8mm for SRAM). Please do not use any other shock size or modify with eccentric shock bushings- this can cause damage or clearance issues with the frame.
It is true that there are some slight weight savings available with the various pressfit bb designs (exact weight savings obviously vary depending on system, frame manufacturing techniques, and crank model), but we don't feel this small savings make up for the inconveniences. We are still able to make a frame that is lighter than most of our competitors, while still using a heavier bb system. There are a number of disadvantages that exist with press fit systems:
1) Special installation and removal tools are required for these parts, including a headset press. This is not convenient for most home mechanics, and they are quite expensive. Traditional external BB's can be installed or removed with a simple $10 hand tool.
2) "Permanently installed cups". Shimano doesn't recommend removing and re-installing their press in bb cups (as they may become damaged), so moving parts from bike to bike is no longer an option. http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SI_0053A_001...
3) Creaking or shifting bb's can be common with these systems. Since the bearing is pressed into a cup, which is then pressed into the frame- it can be hard to get all of the press fits snug- without being too tight on the bearing or too loose in the frame.
4) Reasonable tube sizes. One of the most commonly claimed advantages of a larger bb shell is the larger diameter downtube that goes with it. This may be an advantage on road bikes, where tubes can be incredibly thin and large for optimal stiffness. On a mountain bike, this area of the frame sees a lot of abuse from rocks and crashing, and needs to have a certain amount of wall thickness to survive actual use. Using what we consider a "safe" wall thickness and carbon layup, and a fairly typical tube diameter, we get an exceedingly stiff, light, durable product. If we used a larger downtube, we would either have a heavier frame (same wall thickness but larger diameter), or a less durable product (thinner walls and larger diameter).
5) Chain clearance. Take a look at some of our competitors frames with press in bb shells. The down tube comes so close to the chainrings that many frames have chainsuck guards on the downtube! In our mind, the chain should be able to fall off on a mountain bike and not get jammed between your crank and thin-walled carbon downtube.
6) Backwards compatibility: Many of our customers purchase a frame and build it up with their choice of parts, or parts from an old bike. By using a standard bb, we are compatible with everything without requiring confusing adaptors.
7) Chainguide compatibility: While it may seem strange to talk about putting chainguides on a short travel bike, it is becoming more common now with 10 speed drivetrains. Thread in bb's mean the frame is compatible with bb mount chainguides. We like versatility....